After recovering for a few days in Mexico City, I managed to actually get up and see some sights, and learn a little more about this place. I changed hostels to Hostel Amigo, in the centre of the city, and was instantly surrounded by Aussies, loud music and lots of partying. It was an entirely different Mexico City to that of Coyoacán, the tranquil village Frida and Co. called home.
Back on my feet, and with new bunch of amigos to hang out with, I made the trip out to Teotihuacán, a pre-Aztec site complete with pyramids. Funnily enough, that very day the Mexican media were reporting how a sound and light show planned for Teotihuacán had been called off after the Anthopologists Union had discovered the rigging of the lights had damaged the pyramids. The idiots drilled holes in the 2000-year-old ruins, and understandably people were upset...
I also found time to check out part of the National Museum of Anthropology, which collects various ruins and artefacts under one huge roof, all organised into theire respective pre-Colombian ages and empires. The place was huge, such was the depth and variety of cultures in this part of the world until the whiteys came and fucked it all up. This isn't to say there wasn't war and empire beforehand - in fact the anthropology museum makes it pretty clear there was plenty of that going on, especially at the hands of the Mexica, who came to dominate most of the other mobs on the ground at the same time.
I was under the impression that photos were a no-no, so I can't share with you the wonders of this place. You would honestly need at least two full days to see everything it has to offer. Incredible.
From here I took an overnight bus to Oaxaca City, a hotbed of political activity and as it turns out, amazing street art. The shit hit the fan in Oaxaca in 2006 after a teachers strike turned into a bigger issue when the Mexican Federal Police were sent in to shut things down. Peolpe died, the city was under siege and the previously peaceful city found itself at the vanguard of the struggle against the Mexican state and its all-powerful police force and miltary.
I've managed to track down some of the artists and ask them about their work, their politics and what's happening here and now and have taken about 200 photos of the awesome work they're doing. I'll put the photos up once I've had a chance to put them through photoshop.
Coolest things about Mexico so far:
- The guys selling CDs on the Mexico City Metro for 10 pesos
- The people in general
- The music – lots of very talented musos everywhere you go
- The food – especially tlayudas, a speciality of Oaxaca. Imagine a giant (12-14" in diameter) taco stuffed with refried beans, cheese, avocado and your choice of meat. Delicious!
- Mezcal. Despite one of the worst hangovers in my life, it was still fun.
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